My 306 Dturbo

_Mike_ wrote:There are people out there running this sort of power, but without major modifications your unlikely to see more than 120bhp out of a XUD

That's far from true! Alot of people thought that a few years back, but there are several people running over 160bhp now and a whole load of people running around 130bhp, on 100% standard equipment.

Reliable power is what i prefer personally. With the top mounts, i wouldnt personally want to go alot more than 120bhp. As i said, with major mods (11mm pump, fmic, bigger turbos) alot more is possible.

_Mike_ wrote:Reliable power is what i prefer personally. With the top mounts, i wouldnt personally want to go alot more than 120bhp. As i said, with major mods (11mm pump, fmic, bigger turbos) alot more is possible.

Amen to that, people are throwing rods left, right and centre! I am adamant that 150bhp can be reliable if done properly, but alot of 306 owners don't have the time or don't want to do full engine rebuilds and big shopping lists!

I've always stuck to the rule that if you want power start with the largest powerplant you can get then work on it I.E 2.1/2.2 406 lump and then start the playing, im not in to diesel tuning but surly the extra torque from the larger engine would far out weigh tuning the 1.9/2.0 ??

im liking the info in this thread! some of this tuning stuff is beserk !! haha

eventually i want to tune the engine a bit more, not go to mental, but nice power. maybe new injectors, fmic, and adjust the turbo,new exhaust and less restrictive air filters but i dont wanna go mad slapping new turbos on it!!

whats all this talk of 'compound' boost? what tha then ?

Anyways...pictures speak 1000 words and all that jazzle
Before



After..

Muchos better on those wheels!!

Simon wrote:I've always stuck to the rule that if you want power start with the largest powerplant you can get then work on it I.E 2.1/2.2 406 lump and then start the playing, im not in to diesel tuning but surly the extra torque from the larger engine would far out weigh tuning the 1.9/2.0 ??

The thing is, the XUD9 is pretty revvy for an old IDI, not to mention extremely tuneable for one. Whereas the XUD11 (2.1td), due to the longer throw and more weight, is a very "lazy" engine. It isn't perky or revvy unlike the XUD9, which really isn't far off it's petrol equivalents for revability.

The 2.2 HDi is a DI common rail engine and has been used before, with great success. It's just the money with a 2.2, they're not very cheap to buy or tune, but they have big potential. There is an example over on pug306.net with over 240bhp IIRC, with bigger injectors, intercooler and turbo... that's pretty much it! But, being a VNT, the turbo is extremely expensive to buy and maintain, henceforth people tend to go for the XUD9's over most others
.

Crease! wrote:im liking the info in this thread! some of this tuning stuff is beserk !! haha

eventually i want to tune the engine a bit more, not go to mental, but nice power. maybe new injectors, fmic, and adjust the turbo,new exhaust and less restrictive air filters but i dont wanna go mad slapping new turbos on it!!

whats all this talk of 'compound' boost? what tha then ?

What sort of power are you after? 130bhp is realistically achievable with all standard parts, just a good tune, 150bhp is done with a turbo and a few fuel pump modifications and a good FMIC setup. Big money/mods can get over 180bhp!

"Compound boost" or "Compound charging" is basically one form of forced induction (ie. Turbocharger or Supercharger) feeding another. Darrens is basically a turbo feeding a supercharger, so the supercharger pulls air from behind the turbo, helping it make boost and create lag.

Sorry for the spam! Feel free to tell me to piss off lol!

Car looks great on the Cyclones BTW

ah right, i see, sort of like the vw's charged and turbod engines?

quite clever really tbh! i find it all interesting, its not spam, its things like this that make threads a good read like.

as for the wheels. they do definatly look 10000000x better, one tyre was shagged, so i managed to blag a partworn with about 6/7mm tread and fitted for free

car feels a bit better on them now tbh, just need to sort my lazy arse out and get round to doing the rear axle mounts.
i also took the stupid gayass F sticker off the back window, the little things that count isnt it?

in terms of tuning, i know what you (pugmarshall) mean about the XUD being a revvy engine, its chomps through the gears and dosent hesitate to fly through the revs, my old fiesta, which was a 1.6 16v was well sluggish up the rev range, a very lazy engine so to speak.

when you say, well set up? what do you mean? what sorta conditions do you need, it not like a electronically controlled ecu, where u throw it on a dyno and write a map, id want to be doing that, definatly, but also like the idea of a fat FMIC hanging out the front new exhaust to help things flow a bit better, all worth doing imo, just need some guidance!

also...French is shite build quality..im really really dissapointed, my drivers doorcard keeps falling off,as does the inside door seal, the rear window seals keep faling down, the stupid trim bits around the inside handles keep coming off, and the actual grab bit of the handle pulls off sometimes.....bloody useless frenchies:L

Yes, like VW's TSi engines...

By well set up I mean a properly tuned pump and a good turbo... Like no smoke on boost, a good LDA grind and GOV modded... And maybe 10 or 11mm distributor head.

FMIC is always a good idea but unless you use good pipes and clamps and a good size 'cooler then it isn't much better than standard.

Exhaust wise, if it was me, I'd get rid of the cat, get rid of the middle box and keep the back box...If you're making it yourself go for 2.5" pipes if youre running 18 PSi or more IMO

right...first of all whats a *good LDA grind* and a GOV modded?

when u say distributor i presumin u mean something other than what provides sparks, seeing as diseasls dont have sparks?


what sort of size cooler am i looking for, and i may sort the exhaust out when i come into some readies!

alsooo, what will happen if i wind the bosst compensator all the way in? will it stop it smoking as much?

Crease! wrote:
right...first of all whats a *good LDA grind* and a GOV modded?

when u say distributor i presumin u mean something other than what provides sparks, seeing as diseasls dont have sparks?


what sort of size cooler am i looking for, and i may sort the exhaust out when i come into some readies!

alsooo, what will happen if i wind the bosst compensator all the way in? will it stop it smoking as much?

Sorry, I was half asleep when I wrote that! I meant 11mm pump head... The standard 306 distributor plunger (in the pump head) is 9mm and "distributes" fuel to the lines/injectors, by fitting a 10mm or an 11mm head (usually from a Transit) into the 306 pump, you can put more fuel into the engine, therefore more power.

As for the cooler, you don't need to go crazy, just enough to stop everything cooking. You're best off finidng something that will fit without modifcation to the shell/bumpers/grill etc.

And I would totally recommend screwing the boost compensator in. Not sure if you've heard of the TDOC, but the guy who runs it (Jammapic) did a fair bit with a Lucas pump for these cars and he found out the best way to tune them is to screw the compensator all the way in and use the max fuel for power/matching boost. I've tried this method and it definately works, and reduces smoke off boost.

crease youve got alot to learn with regards to these engines and how much tuning has developed within the last year 2 or literally

welsh_ben wrote:crease youve got alot to learn with regards to these engines and how much tuning has developed within the last year 2 or literally

As Del boy said, got lots research to do... Join pug306.net if you haven't already, there is so much information on there it's unreal.

hey guys, havnt really got much updates on this tbh, jus been driving it, and setting up a new business venture

although i did wash it last week :L

aannndddd i took the cat out today, was thinking about the whole system as a straight thru, but nooo, just the cat, definatly feels like it picks up a bit better anyway!

also, went to have a go at the wastegate, do u undo the 2 screws, the twist the arm in ? i cudn bloody do it! haha, job for another night i think!

WHeeeyyyy, thought id update this thread a little bit, as havnt really posted on here for a while! im a busy boy me !

I managed to pick up a full powerflow stainless system from a GTI-6 for the pricely sum of 20quid!

i used the exhaust from the turbo and welded it to the powerflow system, so its properly decatted with only 2 boxes, dosent seem to have made much difference soundwise, and if im honest seemed slightly slower? but i put that down to it being able to get rid of the gasses faster and having less puff if thats right!

ive been reading up more on the tuning of the lucas pumps, and screwed the compensator in, will put a stronger spring in there when i get time to go and fetch one, but havnt upped the max fuel screw inside the pump behind the plastic cover yet!

i have wound the turbo out, at first i wound it the wrong way, and it was slower than a snail! but have since wound it back and it pulls well again! will have another go at the max fuel screw this week, get it boosting hard

also, if some of u have seen my facebook, my friggin ball joint fell out the hub while doing 50/60 round a corner :/















the pictures show it on a straight, but i traveled a fair way with the wheel sideways! was lucky i didnt lose majour control!

so we put it back together at the side of the road, and drove it back to work, luckily all i needed was an inner boot and tyre! thank god

but as i was tightening up the bolt for the balljoint in the hub, the hub itself had cracked from the impact of the wheel :/ so i needed a new hub! finally after two weeks its all back together and working alright (touches wood)

im going to get myself a new bolt from pug to replace the one ive put in, as im not 100% on it, even though ive done about 100 miles with it, i wanna do it properly to stop it happening again!

ive also sorted myself some leather seats im gettin next weekend!
then its new brakes and a front wheel bearing too!

shall keep u posted a bit more regularly to save the essay posts lol!

over n out captain

u wanna wind the turbo screw in all the way and then out 2 full turns. i read up that that was the best setting. Turn the pump quater of a turn, any more and it'll be slower and just smoke more. then adjust the turbo to suit, use a boost gauge and set it about 17psi. I had mine running 22psi and it soon killed a head gasket. I know people say that no smoke no poke but that is too much smoke, it's just wasting fuel and will attract the police. bit of fiddling it'll be quicker and less smoky.

the wastegate arm is a wierd one, in the vids on youtube its the one that he dosent show you how to adjust. u basically have to screw it into the wastegate so theres more pressure there yea, then it will dump it when the boost is more etc....

ANYWAYS!

IVE SORTED IT

its tuned well tidy now! ive screwed the compensator all the way in as much as it will go, and now theres hardly no smoke, the powers good and its epic on fuel cuz its not dumping loads in at low revs!

thing is, i went to turn my max fueling screw out more, and it wont budge not a bit, infact i bent two allen keys, it wud screw anti clockwise, but not clockwise? does this mean its at its limit? or have i broken it?

either way, ill be gettin under it to adjust the turbo soon, and a homebrew FMIC too

going to use a intercooler from another vehicle, and pipe it in myself, what size is the standard boost pipework? anyone know?

i was thinking about selling it, but now i think ill just find a HDI box, and sort out that amongst the other niggles!

the max fuel screw is tight the firsts time u move it. i used an allan key that is socket mounted.
the turbo, undo the 8mm nut, screw in the allen key about 2-3 turns iirc and u shouldn't be far off.

https://swfco.forumotion.net/t3193-306-d-turbo-front-mount-intercooler-kit

£70 if u want it.

thing is, this isnt the first time ive adjusted it, its the 3rd :/

turbo, it dont have an allen key, its jus a bar with two nuts on the end ( see detailed diagram lol)


\
\====0\ \0=
/ \o\
/

i need to srew the bar through the two nuts and more into diaphram thingy!

as for the intercooler, would you take 50? im strapppped!

Ah right, thats the easier type but i think they do snap if your too hard with it. I cant let the cooler go that cheap, it cost me about £50 just for the pipe work.